Abstract: Hemp possesses excellent comprehensive wearability, but pure hemp fabric usually has poor dimensional stability and wrinkle resistance. Meanwhile, hemp fabrics with good dimensional stability typically have a lower hemp content, lacking the natural hand feel and casual rugged style of hemp. In this study, ten different specifications of high-proportion hemp woven fabrics were produced using hemp and polyester fibers as raw materials, through different raw material combinations, spinning processes, and optimized warp and weft yarn configurations. The results show that fabric with hemp/polyester staple fiber blended yarn in the warp direction and hemp/T400 twisted yarn in the weft direction can best preserve the natural hand feel and casual style of pure hemp fabric, while achieving optimal dimensional stability and wrinkle resistance, as well as stable elastic performance.

Key words: hemp; polyester; anti-wrinkle; hand feel and style; stability