Abstract: Based on the inherent structural characteristics of wool fiber and the dyeing characteristics of vegetable dyes, the paper carries out research on the short-time, low-consumption, non-polluting dyeing process of new ecological vegetable dyes, weave design of elastic and easy-stretching fabric and the finishing technology from the aspects of dyeing contrast experiment, color development, yarn and weave design, spinning process design, weaving process parameters and finishing process. The chromatographic changes of wool dyed with different ecological vegetable dyes and the properties of the final wool fabric were tested, providing theoretical and practical technical support for the improvement of the vegetable planting industry, dye extraction and processing industry, and the ecological industry chain of the wool and woolen garment industry.

Key words: vegetable dyes; wool fabric; fabric weave; finishing process