Abstract: This paper introduces the design and trial weaving process of national style fabric of lyocell fiber. By analyzing the features of lyocell fiber, the paper designs fabric patterns of different inspiration, the order of multi-colored warp yarns, the linear density of warp and weft yarns, the fabric weave, and style, and summarizes the matters needing attention in the winding, warping, sizing and weaving process. Thereinto, the fabric adopts the warp backed weave, of which the ground warps present the overall tone, the colored warps present the pattern. Small yarn-number warps in the drawing-in process adopt the double-entered design. The number of reeds is also arranged differently depending on the patterns. Controlling the generation of hairiness during winding, warping and sizing, and setting the warp tension reasonably. The tension difference among warps is controlled by means of weaving. In the end, a scene display of the national style fabric is carried out.

Key words: lyocell fiber; national style; warp figured fabric; loom tension; hairiness