Abstract: Based on the modern Han women’s dresses in the Folk Costumes Museum of Jiangnan University, this paper studies the pleats of the modern dress in China. Through the measurement of the skirt, this paper analyzes the design of the pleats in modern skirts and the manufacturing process of the representative pleats, and sums up that the pleats in modern skirts have an overall design and present a regular symmetrical style, while the combination of two or more pleats, they will applicate some decorating techniques, including mosaic, welting, and embroidery. And there is a production skill, that is, choose the garment pieces as required, stitch to fix pleat width, and sew after ironing.

Key words: modern times; dress; pleat; design; manufacturing process